Interview with Vario’s Ivan Chua: The Story Behind the 1945 D12

Interview with Ivan Chua: The Vision Behind the Vario 1945 D12 Field Watch

In the world of horology, tribute watches can be a delicate balance—how do you honor the past while creating something fresh for modern collectors? Ivan Chua, founder of Vario, has mastered this art. His latest release, the Vario 1945 D12 Field Watch, pays homage to the legendary Dirty Dozen military watches of World War II while introducing thoughtful refinements suited for contemporary wearers.

I had the chance to speak with Ivan about the inspiration and design philosophy behind the 1945 D12, and his answers reveal a deep respect for history, military timekeeping, and the evolution of wristwatches as everyday tools.

Ian: Your previous success with the Vario 1918 Trench Watch drew inspiration from World War I. What made you choose the Dirty Dozen as your next historical reference?

Ivan: After the 1918 Trench, continuing into WWII felt like a natural step. But with so many iconic military timepieces from that era, I had to decide which one to focus on.

I’ve always wanted to connect my watches to Singapore, and the Battle of Singapore in WWII played a pivotal role in the country’s history. Since British military influence was strong at that time, the Dirty Dozen watches felt like the perfect candidate for a tribute.

Ian: The Dirty Dozen watches all shared a common design language—black dials, broad arrow markings, small seconds, and railroad minute tracks. How did you approach modernizing the design while staying true to its origins?

Ivan: My goal was to create a watch that could sit beside the originals yet feel distinctive in its own right. A true military field watch, but one that modern collectors would enjoy wearing daily.

The first major change was removing the broad arrow from the dial. There are two reasons for this:

1. The broad arrow is a registered trademark of the British government for military use.

2. Vario was not part of the original 12 manufacturers, and I wanted to respect that history rather than imitate it.

Instead, I designed a custom arrow marker at the 12 o’clock position, pointing north—giving the watch its own identity while maintaining a nod to the original.

I also introduced a coarse dial texture, which adds depth and character, especially when light catches it at different angles.

Ian: The Vario logo is subtly debossed on the dial rather than printed. What was the reasoning behind that choice?

Ivan: That detail was inspired by modern military timepieces that often have a more sterile, utilitarian look. I wanted the branding to be subtle, keeping the focus on the overall dial design while still retaining Vario’s identity.

Ian: The hands and lume play a huge role in readability. What design decisions went into them?

Ivan: The sharp white pencil hands ensure excellent legibility, while the cream-colored lume gives it that vintage, old-school charm. I wanted to balance clarity with warmth, so it feels both functional and nostalgic.

Ian: One of the standout features is the oversized screw-down crown positioned at 4 o’clock. Why go with that design?

Ivan: The larger crown makes setting the time easier, which is essential for a field watch. But placing it at 4 o’clock rather than the traditional 3 o’clock means it won’t dig into your wrist—something I think many modern collectors will appreciate.

Ian: Some might have expected a higher-beat Miyota 9-series movement, but you opted for the 8-series. What was the reasoning behind that?

Ivan: The decision was simple: there’s no Miyota 9-series movement that features a sub-seconds dial, and that was an essential part of this watch’s design. The Miyota 82S5 delivers reliability while maintaining the classic Dirty Dozen aesthetic.

Ian: Some enthusiasts may question the polished elements on a military-inspired watch. What made you choose a mix of brushed and polished finishing?

Ivan: A true military tool watch would be all matte or brushed, but to me, this watch is also a celebration of peace. It marks the end of WWII, and I wanted it to be a versatile everyday watch—one that could be worn casually but also dressed up when needed.

Ian: In your own words, what does the Vario 1945 D12 represent?

Ivan: This watch captures the spirit of the original Dirty Dozen—a tough, functional, state-of-the-art tool watch—while being relevant today with upgraded specs.

It’s a reminder of the bravery of the soldiers who wore these watches and fought to protect their homelands. At the same time, it’s a symbol of peace and a nod to the innovations in horology that emerged from war.

And most importantly—it’s a field watch meant for everyone to enjoy.

Final Thoughts

The Vario 1945 D12 is more than just a vintage-inspired reissue—it’s a carefully considered timepiece that respects history while embracing modern wearability. Ivan’s approach to design, from the arrow marker at 12 o’clock to the coarse dial texture and subtle branding, results in a watch that feels both authentic and unique.

For collectors, military history enthusiasts, or anyone who appreciates understated, functional design, the Vario 1945 D12 Field Watch is a worthy addition to the wrist.